Friday, 18 May 2012

My Uniform - 40s trousers

I am working on adjusting my uniform to my personal norms and still keeping it in 'what's right' and on the edge of 'what's wrong'. Some are disappointed with working hours, some with wages... no matter how it sounds, I am very disappointed with my new uniform. 
I arrived in pencil - verypppencil - black skirt and black seamed stockings just to hear that only trousers while they handed me polyester formless creation. 
I nearly fainted, decided no to sleep and went shopping the next day.
Unfortunately it is impossible to find in shops for ordinary mortals trousers made of cotton +-mix with high tight waist and wide legs means Swing 40s Trousers. By tight, I mean 12-13 inches difference between hips and waist. 
For today's standards I should definitively get few litres of filler on my belly. I tried, moving buttons, creating gathers with not 'so so' but only 'so' effect.  
I travelled through miles of Clothes Reproduction websites and Vintage Online Shops.
Sure you can find 40s trousers, but black? no.


There's Vivien of Holloway, 55GBP my first choice.
I've called, I've been there and I've written few times and they don't expect to produce black cotton trousers in the nearest future however once a month they have this kind of inquiry. Vivien of Holloway makes the best waistline ever !




Tara Starlet stick only to non black production for crazy 60 GBP.


Heydays almost fulfilled my dreams. I was ready to pay 55GBP - a lot! and accept polyester viscose mix but then they don't have my size. Even though Ms Helen insisted brown chock is oh so dark! I didn't proceed. However they expect to have more sizes in stock quite soon.




Lady - K - Loves poly viscose mix with a lot of stretch in black for kind 35GBP. Again not in my size... coming soon!



...it does look strange this front view...
Then after digging in Etsy I found a girl in US who is so willing to make 40s trousers from any fabric with any details I want. But for 80GBP plus 20GBP delivery and 3weeks of constructing it and around 2 weeks of delivery and possibly xGBP for tax. I'm still not sure if ever I should go for it.. it's expensive, I assume it should be worth it, but what if there are some changes necessary? another 3 months of shipping and waiting.
so....no


hmmmm... I have to start collecting beige clothes...
There is a family business very active on eBay. They create 40s clothes from genuine vintage patterns. Few years ago I considered some shopping there but I didn't like they do use tones of polyester. Desperate I wrote emails asking if there's a chance to get one black pair in cotton mix. 'Maybe later, not now, soon..' and then suddenly I got a paypal invoice and the package one day after payment. And there it was... black 40s 100% nice cotton trousers made from pattern in my size! I moved buttons a bit and here it is, perfect just as I wanted!! for 35 GBP.





...definitively, if not in motion, looks awkward...

Sunday, 8 April 2012

Marchesa Luisa Casati

'She became a being of her own invention - not one of any particular sex, or time, or size, or shape.'


Marchesa Luisa Casati has been the most entertaining part of Italian High Class. The most innovative and creative woman ever lived! Even though her most spectacular years were 1910 - 1920 and when 20s brought new flapper style and ready made dresses she still kept her style of past splendor and sparkled.
Much less understood and accepted by the crowd Luisa couldn't care less about disapproval she caused.
' Count Etienne de Beaumont had planned a ball and the Marchesa Casati decided to appear as an electrically equipped Saint Sebastian. She was to wear armour pierced with hundreds of arrows, each studded with glittering stars that were to light up when the Marquesa appeared. In the morning of the ball in a little side room (...) she arrived with her host's permission, bringing a fleet of servants, an electrician, and stoves for boiling water to make cups of tea or coffee while the elaborate preparations for her appearance were in progress. At last, her maquillage complete, her hair fixed in an aureole of ringlets, the Marquesa was pulled into tights and the armour was fixed on her with padlock. But at the moment of being plugged in a disaster took place; the costume was shortcircuit and instead of being lighted up with thousands stars, the Marquesa suffered an electric shock that sent her into a backward somersault. She did not recover in time to appear at the party, leaving a note (...) "milles regrets".' 
Yes. It was in 20s.


Once she attended a mask ball where she arrived and dined dressed as a serpentine having on her side naked woman and naked man - Adam and Eve, those two were just and only part of her costume.
With time she went 'mad'.
' Eccentricity is tolerable only in it's first freshness. Cherished until it has gone stale, it becomes unbearably pathetic and at the same time alarming.' Maurice Druon.
But once it was fresh...
Luisa Casati had a Style. 




Some say that she just poped out from Gabriele D'Annunzio's head, Italian poet and novelist, her lover and friend for few dozen of years until she's sent him last note asking for money and that note has never been answered until D'Annunzio's death. 
Luisa went a step forward. She not only created herself, she created from basics, her surroundings. 


She liked to:
- have servants dwarfs, usually black, and paint them in white and dress in gold clothes
- dye birds, black pigeons or white peacock
- all animals, she basically owned a zoo in her villa, in her every single villa
- stuff her beloved animals that reached the time of death
- choose dogs to suit her dress, f.ex. grey or black foxhound
- electronic toys, she had an electric tiger welcoming guests, lightning and making sound
- do some drugs
- stay in bed, in full make up and fully dressed having drinks for breakfast
'she found Marchesa in bed, fully made up in the old vamp style, covered with a rug of black ostrich feathers, eating a breakfast of fried fish and drinking straight Pernod while trying on a newspaper scarf.'
- wear heavy make up; black eyes - sometimes she glued pieces of velvet to her eyelids, red lips, white skin and all this with red burning hair - till the end of her time
- visit unexpectedly first painters, then photographers and ask for a portrait or a photo
- dress in orient, Alladin pants, gold and huge pointy hats.
- have plenty of lovers who never compete with each other
- have her interiors all in white or all in black 
- organize amazing balls ended with her I'm-naked walk through her gardens with fleet of guests fallowing her
- occultism, source of beloved Black and purple flowers together




Her marriage has been only a fiction. Her only daughter has spent her life first in catholic school, later busy with her husband.
Luisa's granddaughter knew it's forbidden to title her grandma 'grandma'. Luisa divorced in her 40s and fought successfully for her title and name; Marchesa Luisa Casati.
'She wasn't beautiful - she was spectacular.'
She became a Muse of her epoque. 
Never predictable; 'if the public can predict you, it starts to like you'. That's the last thing she wanted. Her goal was to incite. And through all this extravaganza she was very shy person. 
Never had a good hand for money. She ended in poverty and tried to squeeze money from all friends and people she's met. 




'The Marchesa seemed to have a genuine horror of money. One day , one of her younger friends, Cecil Beaton, admired the collages that she amused herself by making out of old engravings. Like everything the Marchesa touched, these 'scraps, had a strange charm. He proposed that she prepare an exhibit of them ... but the moment she had to work toward a lucrative end, inspiration fled, and the Marchesa touched her scissors no more.'






'In today's age, everyone must be useful, independent, practical. To that I say, 'What a tremendous bore!'' Quentin Crisp.


Galliano, in his great times, inspired by Casati created most amazing pieces for Dior.











Monday, 26 March 2012

Daily Routine

Since I started working my days are:
It takes time so unfortunately I'm so so so far behind but still managed to finish few books.
What to wear on a first day?


I considered Vintage late - 50s burgundy dress with gold buttons...
corder navy - green gloves and House of Olivier Victoria petticoat.





And House of Olivier Juliette petticoat.




Eventually it ended with vintage custom made 50s gold - cream top, hated by my boyfriend, and Bettie Page skirt.






Tuesday, 28 February 2012

going to the Post Office

Yesterday while watching Twilight Zone, I tried but couldn't finish - connection issues, I pin curled my hair. If I really try to do it nicely it takes 15 min. 
Usually it's just an accident if it looks great. And this is what happened today.
Brushing is extremely important. Later on sculpting it with a comb is a key action.
Some litres of hairspray. 
And voilà  !




Yes. Glycolic peels at SKIN clinic are marvellous and better than any cream ever.
I did bought the whole series (for 6 months) paying special offer prices and spent almost monthly rent by doing it. But well... no one knows it except me!






At SKIN clinic there's this amazing 'exfoliate cleanser'. It is definitively worth buying. It contains glycolic acid you can just continue treatment at home. 
I always discover these kind of things (many all kind of things) so late...
My beautician lady is 28 and already had botox to prevent forehead wrinkles. Well...
that's not for me.
Anyway new antiredness creams helped me a lot but I still struggle with transparent loose powders. They are just to dark for me! So I ordered few kilos of White Loose Star Gazer Powder and I'll mix it.





So I pinned it on the sides and put on the genuine 40s dress, bought as never worn with tags.
My love hates it. Says I look like elderly person. 
It's cotton so I like it. I don't feel the most comfortable or rather confident in it but once a woman at the airport loved it so much that I decided, ok maybe there's something in it.



I should definitively get a brown leather belt because this looks just simply embarrassing...


Anyway, sometimes I don't feel like it; recreating or building myself, but I just simply can't disappoint my fans!!! And they are there! Together with those who think I'm mental...
Especially this one around - 50years old - lady at the post office who always bursts out laughing when she sees me. Couldn't disappoint her either.
So I had a long walk in my new Vintage 60s - 70s wool cape that I managed to shoot for 30GBP and saw it on eBay also for 60-80GBP.




Nothing annoys me more than wind destroying my hairstyle. Especially when accidentally it worked. It seriously pisses me off and I just can't understand Why? WHY I ASK?? in Northampton, the furthest point from the Sea, is so Windy ?!?!
So I walk around in scarves.
It doesn't suit me. Doesn't make things look better but there's just nothing more to do.
I got the bag in TKmax for peanuts and Corder gloves eBay of course.




While I was getting to my destination I had to fight my way through all UNICEF consultants. 
They had to have quite a fun when my heel stuck in between paving stones and I even managed to make another step without a shoe. Had to return and aggressively pull it.
Well, happens... 
...to me quite often.
But after the post office I managed to arrive to the doctor in one piece with slightly raw feet, as usual. But I love Jones the Bootmaker! Even though it kills my feet I buy pair after pair.
So a nurse appeared to be an ex-hairdresser in 50s! She mentioned women had their hair set every week and it was the most busy profession.
In one piece I reached home checking bike shop on my way.
I am going to buy a bike.
My Danish Red Love with a huge wicker basket was sold. I thought nothing will replace it but now I decided it's time.
And so... I don't know what to choose!!!
And I have only 10 hours left to make the decision.


HELP!!!

This one:




or this one:




Not that I expect comments or something... but Please !!! if you read this, even if you don't usually comment, or don't care...but Please !!! Help me !!! which one ? only 10 hours...


And soon I'll be able to start bike - showing - off that has only one minus...How to protect your hairstyle. Naturally helmet is out of question.
I have two cloche hats, winter and summer one.
But scarves are always working.



Monday, 20 February 2012

The best Hair in the history !!!

Lana Turner in 'The Bad and the Beautiful'.




It's not a hairstyle. It's a sculpture. A Masterpiece!


video


Here some photos of article from one book, I made it long time ago and forgot the book's title.








Jean Brooks in 'The Seventh Victim'.








Only 1943 but so innovative !!! I used to do it myself; grab scissors and cut the front in a shape of short fringe almost like cut from the helmet.
But I've been asked so many times to stop it that eventually I did...




Joan Caulfield in 'The Lady says No'.
Right away I started parting my hair in the middle.





Sandra Dee in 'If a Man Answers'.











And my yesterday's hair just before having a shower. I'm constantly experimenting, curling, testing styling products...
I must say Not bad! Not bad at all!




to be continued...